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The Black Scarf for Glamour
by Rolando Gomez

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Everyone always asks me, how do I achieve that soft, look with sharp eyes on a model, or how do I achieve that “glow” in my images? It’s simple, I spend a $1.99 at Wal-Mart for a “Simply Basic, Ladies Nylon Scarf, (sku# 3917427298)” made by Paris Accessories, Inc. from New York.

The black scarf is a tool, not magic. You have to practice to utilize its benefits in the long run. It is primarily used for glamour, nudes, or fashion involving the female, and its effect is designed to tone down the harshness of “hard,” artificial lighting, such as studio strobes.

Why use a black scarf? First, it’s black—neutral density—doesn’t shift colors (increase exposure by 1/3 f/stop). Second, the cross-weave of the thread acts as a cross-screen filter. The thread itself acts as the diffuser. Last, it’s cheap and works.

The key to using the filter is to associate the effect of the filter with your aperture of the camera. F/8 has a total different effect than f/5.6. The wider the aperture, or smaller the number, the more diffused effect and the less the defined the stars coming from the cross-screen will be on specular highlights.

In addition, the light modifiers used on your light source, will affect the effect of the filter. The softer the light source modification, i.e. a soft box, the softer the image and slightly lower contrast. The harder the light, such as open flash or direct sun, the less soft the image will appear. Keep in mind, there is a difference between a “soft” image and a “diffused” image. While the filter acts as a diffuser, the light source and aperture determine the softness, or out-of-focus look the filter will produce. The higher the f/stop, the less effect the filter will produce.

However, even with less effect, the plus of the black scarf is that it helps diffuse imperfections in skin complexions, stretch marks, pores that appear with hard light and smoothes out the hair for a more flowing look.

Photographed with two Dyna-Lite UNIJR400 lights w/Jack Rabbit location battery packs, Rosco gels, and on camera flash. Lens 85mm, 1/8 shutter on monopod, f/4

Soft box, @ f/2.8 = Diffused, very soft appearance of the image, halos around specular highlights, slight glow of the subject.

Soft box, @ f/5.6 = Diffused, soft appearance of the image, less defined stars, slight glow of the subject.

Soft box @ f/11 = Diffusion plus hardly any softness of the image, sharper stars, no glow of the subject.

Direct sunlight @ f/2.8 = Diffused, soft appearance of the image, less defined stars.

Direct sunlight @ f/5.6 = Diffused, very slight softness of the image, more defined stars.

Direct sunlight @ f/11 = Diffused, sharp stars off specular highlights.

Open Shade @ f/2.8= Diffused, soft appearance of the image, halos around specular highlights, slight glow of the subject

Open Shade @ f/5.6 = Diffused, soft appearance of the image, less defined stars

Open Shade @ f/11 = Diffused, slightly soft appearance of the image, sharp stars

The way I use the scarf, is to carefully place it across the front of your lens. I take an old filter ring, preferably without the glass, like a step-up or step-down ring, and carefully screw it on the front of the lens. Make sure not to cross-thread your lens and be careful not tear the scarf material.

Once you have a few threads, carefully tug at the outside of the scarf to pull it tight across the lens. It doesn’t have to be too tight, snug is fine. If you are not able to use a ring, stretch it across the front of the lens and use a rubber band, making sure the rubber band doesn’t affect the focusing mechanism of the lens.

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©2004 Rolando Gomez



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